Košice

Slovakia's second largest city features a breathtaking old town reminiscent of Prague or Krakow. Old town Košice has plenty of peeling facades alongside the restored 18th and 19th century buildings painted in pastel hues. Lamposts emanating warm yellow light illuminate winter meanderings through the cobblestone streets and alleyways. Come summertime, the city's main drag, Hlavná ulica, transforms into a sea of outdoor cafés.

Surrounding the old town you'll find a somewhat typical Slovak mélange: tower blocks and other examples of (mostly unfortunate) 20th and 21st century architecture cut through by roads you don't want to cross before looking left and right and then left again.

But what I love most about Slovakia's second city are its independent cultural venues. For my money, Collosseum is Slovakia's coolest underground music venue, while Kino Úsmev is the country's most atmospheric arthouse cinema. Tabačka, meanwhile, is a multipurpose venue in a restored industrial building that hosts concerts, lectures, flea markets and has a great restaurant. Kosice is not a particularly progressive city at first glance, but my alternative soul always gets fed when I come to town.

All photos taken by me, Jeff Lugowe